Business of Bliss

Ben speaking at the Business of Bliss

Ben speaking at the Business of Bliss

In October 2009, I had the honour of speaking at the Business of Bliss in Calgary, Alberta. The event was a full-day speaker series designed to inspire women to discover their purpose, live their passion, and create a life they love. I had the incredible opportunity to share the stage with Candace Bushnell, author of Sex and the City; Martha Beck, New York Times best-selling author and columnist for O, The Oprah Magazine; and Peter Walsh, organizational guru from TLC’s Clean Sweep. In my talk, I shared my story of challenging the fashion industry to represent authentic beauty and I extracted tools for the audience to join me in debunking the beauty ideal, re-imagining beauty, and allowing their newfound understanding to inspire their lives. I would like to thank the creator of the event, Kari Dunlop, for providing a forum to turn dreams into reality and, by doing so, lead the lives we want to live.

Ben signing copies of his book, Fashioning Reality

Audience at the Business of Bliss

Age is Beauty

Irene Sinclair in the Dove Campaign for Real Beauty

Women in their 90s are the stars of the catwalk and international beauty campaigns. American stylist and designer Abigail Lorick, stylist of TV show Gossip Girl, presented her her 2009 Spring/Summer collection for her label Lorick at New York Fashion. Abigail ditched the conventional catwalk presentation and instead opted for an interactive performance. Presented in different rooms in a Manhattan apartment, the audience joined models partaking in an afternoon tea party. Abigail also ditched the beauty ideal and included  93-year-old model Mimi Widdel in her show. But this was not Mimi’s first fashion show; she graced the New York Times runways in 1941 (when the newspaper hosted its own fashion shows).

97-year-old Irene Sinclair, a great grandmother from London, was the face of an international beauty campaign for Dove. Her picture has appeared on a billboard in New York’s Times Square, in addition to posters throughout Australia, Canada, the UK and in Vogue, Flare, Galmour ads, among others. Unlike Mimi, Irene was a newbie model but decided to give it a shot because she wanted to demonstrate that age is only a number. She explained: “I got involved to be an ambassador for older people and to affirm that we have a lot to offer and we aren’t past it. I’ve never been beautiful, but I feel I am beautiful now. It’s all about growing older gracefully.”

Mimi Widdel in the Lorick S/S 2009 presentation

Real Women for Real

Icelandic artist Didda Jonsdottir, 45, in Brigitte (January 2010)

In November 2009, Brigitte, Germany’s bestselling women’s magazine, announced that they would use real women of all ages and sizes — a mix of prominent women and regular readers — instead of traditional models in photo spreads from January 2010 onwards. Their move was a response to complaints by readers who said they had no connection with the women depicted in fashion features. Editor Brigitte Huber further explained that their decision was motivated by what she saw as a change in the desires and attitudes of female consumers: “Women have changed. They no longer want to see interchangeable, faceless models on the pages of their magazines. They want to see real women. We want to respond to that by showing real women, women who have a profession and who are prepared to give their ages.” What I find particularly exciting about this move is that Brigitte’s decision is not a one-off effort, a promise of a “special issue,” but instead a real commitment to feature a diverse mix of women in fashion spreads in each and every issue. It is an authentic and honest approach to diversity.

Restauranteur Franca Cuneo, 28, in Brigitte (January 2010)

A Dream We Can Believe In

The last day of 2009 is filled with hope for change in our visual culture. Today, V Magazine released its second editorial entitled “Curves Ahead” for its upcoming spring 2010 Size Issue on models.com. These images (see all of them on models.com as bloggers were asked to only post two pictures) do anything but cut the models down to size, as was done in the first editorial; they proudly celebrate the fashion of curves. What is more, the images keep with a high fashion aesthetic and aspiration that has, until now, exclusively been reserved for thin models – further demolishing the myth that models need to be a particular size to be featured in high fashion.

My hope is that these images will not only rock our foundation by challenging who we consider beautiful, but it will shift the culture of the industry decisions makers when developing editorials, creating campaigns, and casting models. Living in a culture where we are bombarded by cookie-cutter fashion images, it is difficult for some to imagine what they would look like with different sized (and aged, ability, and background) models. We have not had the opportunity to see these representations in our popular culture. But just as Dove showed us how beautiful diversity could look in personal care advertising, V Magazine is showing us how beautiful diversity can look in fashion editorial. Both are offering us a new way to see. In 2010, let’s use this lens to celebrate diversity and, most importantly, make it an every issue occurrence.

Another Perspective on V Magazine and Size Diversity

V Magazine Every Body in Beautiful Issue January 2009

When I first heard about the V Magazine spread, I could not help but be excited: A high fashion magazine was embracing size diversity. The preview of the editorial was released, and I was even more excited because the editors and stylists had not played it safe – Crystal Renn, the size 12 model, was not styled in a drab or safe manner, but with the same high fashion clothes, glamour and artistry as the size two model. She was shown in patterns, body conscious fashions, and loads of accessories.

When Kate Harding interviewed me on the spread for salon.com, I explained (as I had in my previous blog post on this topic) that these two facts – Crystal was in a high fashion magazine and was styled in a high fashion convention – was progress. I also explained that we live in two separate worlds: fashion and humankind. When real people who aren’t in the industry talk about it, they often have to jump into a funhouse and realize they’re entering a completely distorted world.

But I told Kate I did see what she saw, that Crystal’s size had been cut down. I saw it as someone going on a photoshop binge, especially compared to Crystal’s beautiful spread in Harper’s Baazar Australia where her natural body and beauty was celebrated. But I thought it was great that she could be photographed in such a variety of styles, as V and Harper’s creative visions were very different. But the reality of the V spread could not escape me. Why did Crystal not look like her usual voluptuous self? Even more, why did using plus size models require a special issue?

Sarah Kliff in Newsweek echoed my discomfort. She argues that whether Renn has lost weight or V editors went photoshop crazy, neither of these fit particularly well into the everyone-is-beautiful ideals that V is promoting. Sarah also suggests that running a special issue to feature larger women declares that this is not the norm, these are not regular models and, next month, they will return to what is the norm. For her, it proves that fat has yet to become fashionable.

I certainly agree with Sarah, but I still argue that this V Magazine issue is a revolution. But no longer because it features plus size models or because they are styled in a high fashion manner. V is a revolution because it has created dialogue and debate about what we want to see and how we want to see it. Remember it is also a first attempt. When Mark Fast used plus models in his London show, they did not have the proper undergarments or walk, and were heavily critiqued for both. But when William Tempest and Sunny Fong used plus models after Mark, no critique. Both had learned from his first effort.

As fashion endeavors to incorporate diversity, it will make mistakes. It is our job, as readers, consumers and change agents, to voice our thoughts and ideas because, only by doing so, will we shape the industry we really want to see. So next time, let’s see a size 16 or 18, some age and cultural variety, and less photoshop.

Crystal Renn in Harper’s Baazar Australia May 2009 (an outtake with absolutely no retouching)

White Hair and Wrinkles Celebrated

Relaxing over the holiday season, I spent some time surfing the compressive database on style.com of past collections – and came across an exciting discovery. The Etro Men’s Fall 2009 show during Milan Fashion Week included several mature, gray and white haired, and wrinkle proud models.

The one woman can be viewed as revolutionary. A woman wearing men’s clothes is considered sexy – and typically one would expect a young model to strut down the catwalk. Yet the fact they have a sophisticated white haired women can be seen are proclaiming that mature women are every bit as, if not more, sexy as their younger counterparts.

While recent uses diversity garnered major press, the Entro show went off without a sound bite.  Why? People are unsure, cautious, and thoroughly terrified when it comes to speaking about men and body image. Questioning men’s body image destabilizes all our beliefs about masculinity because “real men” are not suppose to be worried about how they look. In real life, we know this is anything but true.

Such a move might also have gone unnoticed because men were seen to be just as, if not more, handsome as they age. So no big deal. While such a sentiment was believed several decades ago, today it has been completely erased. Men’s magazines are filled with young, toned, and wrinkle-free men. Every anti-aging promise offered to women is now urgently offered to men.

No matter how you interpret the use of mature models, one point is clear: Etro understands their target market. Their consumers are not all young, and this show demonstrates how men of different ages can wear their creations. I hope that the Etro catwalk encourages us to speak more about men and body image as well inspires other designers – both menswear and womenswear – to also authentically include age diversity in their shows.

Perhaps next time Etro and others can take age diversity a step further by varying the ethnicities of their mature models.

High Fashion Has No Size Limit

The January issue of V Magazine is another step forward for body variety in the fashion world. The Size Issue will showcase models of different sizes wearing glamourous, forward fashion shot and styled with all the modern high fashion conventions. V Editor Stephen Gan explains: “Big, little, pint-size, plus-size – every body is beautiful. And this issue is out to prove it.”

What is particularly groundbreaking is that the magazine is at the top of the high fashion pyramid; powerhouses in the industry have all contributed, such as Hedi Slimane, Mario Testino, and Karl Lagerfeld. It further demonstrates that size diversity is not limited to commercial fashion brands but can be successfully incorporated into all sectors of the industry.

Thanks to V Magazine, we are able to bring you a look at one of the stunning editorials. This particular spread showcases two models – one size 2 and one size 12 – wearing the same outfit. The message is clear: High fashion has no size limit. This certainly dispels the myth that certain styles look better on certain sizes. Instead, we can all look gorgeous in haute couture, and now we can finally begin to picture ourselves – with all the artistry and glamour – in it.

I do want to note that the images have been majority airbrushed. The revolution here is fact they are including a size 12 model in a high fashion spread and, even more, that they are showing her in high fashion posing and styling (i.e. who says a size 12 woman cannot pattern mix, load up on accessories, and wear body conscious couture). The fact that both models’ uniqueness – love handles, cellulite, wrinkles etc – have been photoshopped out is another revolution waiting to happen.

Glamour’s Body Image Revolution

 

Some of the top plus size models working today in Glamour Magazine November 2009

The November issue of Glamour Magazine featured an article declaring that the magazine would feature age, size, and cultural diversity in their fashion and beauty images. Not only did the article include a nude image of the top plus size models working today, but it also included a lengthly quote on my current research about the impact of fashion models on purchase intentions. I was honoured to be part of this revolutionary step forward in changing who is in the pictures that wallpaper our visual world.

Here is an excerpt from the article:

“We are undergoing a shift in the mind-set of the modern female consumer,” explains Ben Barry, who coauthored a study on how women in the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom respond to advertising images. Conducted in collaboration with the University of Cambridge’s Judge Business School, the study of more than 3,000 subjects showed that women were most likely to want to purchase a fashion product if it was associated with a model that directly resembled them. “This does not mean that women want to do away with aspirational images,” cautions Barry. “It is the very opposite. The worst thing a magazine could do is to showcase an image of a ‘normally sized’ model that looks like most driver’s license pictures, with poor styling, clothing and photography. Instead, women want these models to have the same glamour and artistry as other fashion models.” We at Glamour couldn’t agree more, and we’re listening hard to our readers’ call to action. Here’s what you can expect to see in our pages going forward:

• A continued commitment to showing a wide range of body types—and, of course, racial diversity—in our pages, including fashion and beauty stories.
• A promise to give the best plus models not just work, but the same great work straight-size models get, partnering with top photographers, stylists and makeup artists. Because a generous helping of fantasy, in our view, is fabulous—as long as it’s extended to women of all sizes.
• An ongoing celebration of the so-called imperfections, from nose bumps to gap teeth smiles, that make us all unique.
• Enthusiastic support for any designer who manufactures chic clothes we can photograph on full-bodied models.

Quebec Launches Charter for Body Diversity

The seven models who participated in the fashion show to launch the Charter

On October 16th, 2009, I was delighted to join the Quebec Government and members of the fashion industry to launch The Quebec Charter for a Healthy and Diverse Body Image. Eight months before, I was hired by the Government as a special advisor to help develop and draft the document. We developed the Charter through consultations with professionals from fashion, health, education, Government as well as those with eating disorders. We also debated and discussed various drafts of Charter with a committee composed of members from these various sectors until we achieved consensus.

The Charter proposes a vision for a society that values body diversity and identifies seven principles for industry, media and regulators to follow in order to help make it reality. Through the seven principles, we are all challenged to act as agents of change to help free ourselves and each other from self-limiting beauty stereotypes. Aside from helping develop the Charter itself, my particular touch was launching the Charter with a fashion show featuring seven models of different sizes, ages, and cultural backgrounds to show the vision in practice. Over the next year, I will join the Government and other professions on a committee to help the spirit of the Charter take hold through the industry and other sectors.

Here is a copy of the Charter:

Québec Charter for a Healthy and Diverse Body Image

The body image presented in the public sphere and the media influences self-image, self-esteem, and, indirectly, public health. We recognize that beauty ideals based on extreme slimness can harm self-esteem, particularly in girls and women. We believe that eating habits and weight loss practices are influenced by biology, psychology, family, society, and culture. We encourage partners from all fields—governments, community organizations, and corporations—to work together to help diminish social pressure in the interest of a healthy and egalitarian society. We believe that with their vitality and creativity, the fashion, advertising, and media sectors can provide leadership and exert a positive influence over the public. We want to follow the international trend in the fashion industry towards awareness campaigns on problems related to excessive preoccupation with weight, anorexia, and bulimia. We are determined, at the instigation of the Minister of Culture, Communications and the Status of Women, to collectively contribute to drafting this charter and launching a common call to action to promote a healthy diversity of body images.

We, the undersigned, therefore pledge our support for a vision of a society in which body diversity is valued and, in consequence, undertake, as part of our respective missions, to

1. Promote a diversity of body images, including different heights, proportions, and ages

2. Encourage healthy eating and weight control habits

3. Discourage excessive behavior with respect to weight loss or appearance modification.

4. Refuse to subscribe to esthetic ideals based on extreme slimness

5. Remain vigilant and diligent in order to minimize the risks of anorexia, bulimia, and unhealthy concerns about weight

6. Act as agents of change in order to promote healthy and realistic practices and images regarding the body

7. Promote the Québec Charter for a Healthy and Diverse Body Image to our partners, clientele, and colleagues while actively adhering to and respecting these principles

A Designer Who Gets Diversity

Alison in VAWK Spring/Summer 2010

Peggi in VAWK Spring/Summer 2010

On October 19, Project Runway Canada (PRC) winner Sunny Fong opened LG Toronto Fashion Week with his spring/summer 2010 collection under his label VAWK. We were delighted to help him cast both traditional and non-tradition models to showcase his high fashion collection at the Art Gallery of Ontario. Fong explained: “I am all about diversity and choosing different looks, as opposed to clones – that’s not interesting. I chose models of all ages and sizes because I want to prove that my clothes are meant to be worn; they aren’t only for show. I wanted to let people imagine what my clothes would like if you were to see them walking down the street.” Media gave Fong rave reviews not only for his masterful artistry and feminine silhouettes, but for his choice of diverse models. Designers like Fong understand the business case for showing your consumer on the catwalk.